I arrived at Gora Tensui after the most arduous day of train journeys from Komatsu. Arduous only because of my own stupidity, nothing to do with the train system which did everything it was supposed to do like clock work as usual.

So, after a 10 hour journey that should have been 5, I was thoroughly stressed, until that was, the doors of this chic boutique Ryokan in the centre of the mountain village of Gora.

I was met by the manager, who had been monitoring my progress through the Japanese Alps ! I was lead straight to the bar in the lobby and invited to take my shoes and socks off. .... Slightly bizarre I thought but when in Japan.... It soon became clear why as I was asked to sit at the bar whose seats were almost at ground level, but there was a foot well running the length of it. Now the Piece de Resistance - hot natural spring water running along the footwell. The minute I plunged my tired feet into it, I was relaxed, helped along by a complimentary welcome drink (you can choose anything you like - your favourite drink in the world. My weapon on choice - a chilled Sapporo Black Label - undoubtedly the finest beer you will ever taste. ).

After the stress of the journey had disappeared, I took to the public onsen for a good old soak before dinner. It was dark and the stars were out, and you could make out the odd light on the mountain in front. Incredibly peaceful.

Dinner had a lot to live up to having come from a somewhat intricate 12 course Kaiseki fayre the nigh before. It didn't disappoint and again raised the already astoundingly high level which I had now come to expect. The squid was just melt in the mouth. Sea bream sashimi with an ever so light soy and delicate wasabi. Sensational beef and some of the finest tuna sashimi to finish. All washed down with house sake which was very high grade. I was full, but not stuffed, and instead of feeling tired and bloated, energised and up for more onsen bathing and a rock bath before bed and an amazing night's sleep on my futon.

As a base to explore the Hakone area from, it is faultless, lying 5 minutes walk to Gora train station which takes you back to Hakone Yumoto and eventually Tokyo, but is also the beginning of the rack railyway which takes you up the geezers and cable car down to the shores of Lake Ashi, which if you're feeling particularly Japanese and Kitsch, is where you csn take a replica 15th Century Gallion around the lake, with full pirate theme on board. Only in Japan !

Gora Tensui is an amazing place to stay, not only for the food but the hospitality, the private Onsen avaialble in some rooms and the unique "rock bath". It also has some of the most powerful healing waters in its Onsen, with a high degree of sulphur giving the water that milky look and that is what you're looking for, but without the smell !

Go now before others discover this absolute gem !

(P.S. - Booked through my old friends at Feel Good Holidays. No-one else does this place or places like it.)