3 perfect days in Copenhagen

Welcome to Copenhagen, the land of bicycles, stunning architecture, and excellent food. With just three days for your trip, it’s easy to pack your schedule with too many attractions (but never too many tebirkes, the tasty flaky poppy seed pastries with marzipan filling). The concept of hygge (the art of being cozy) was born in this part of the world, so the goal of this guide is to leave you with a sense of contentment and utter coziness.

From royal gardens to cemeteries, bike rides to saunas, this three-day guide celebrates Copenhagen’s very best. Even better: Tripadvisor reviews and ratings are also included.

Stretch your legs with a morning walk along the famed Nyhavn canal, lined with ships of all sizes and centuries-old buildings that essentially scream Lego (makes sense, since Denmark is the birthplace of the colorful bricks). The area can get crowded with locals and tourists as the day goes by—especially in the warmer months—so why not have it all to yourself by coming here first thing in the morning?

Architecture lovers: One of the first properties you’ll come across as you enter the canal is No. 9, a gray-blue townhouse that dates to the late-1600s, making it the oldest house in the area. More of a literature buff? You’ll be delighted to know that writer Hans Christian Andersen (of The Little Mermaid and The Princess and the Pea fame) lived in several houses here: No. 20, No. 67 (where he spent 20 years), and No. 18. Pause long enough and you might just get inspired to pen a fairytale of your own.

Nourish yourself with a quintessential Danish breakfast at Apollo Bar. Think perfectly soft-boiled eggs, fresh sourdough, yogurt, and a berry compote. If weather permits, enjoy your meal in the courtyard surrounded by buildings covered in lush ivy. (Pro-tip: If you’re still in the area in the late-afternoon, go back to the Apollo for a pre-dinner beverage and chill out with the locals.)

For lunch, stop by Gasoline Grill, a burger joint disguised as a working gas station (or is it the other way around?). It might not feel right having an American-style burger in Copenhagen, but the hype—as evidenced by the long line—is worth every minute of your time. Actual gas patrons can get a little distracting, but from the moment you sink your teeth into a juicy burger and perfectly salted crinkle fries, all is forgiven.

Copenhagen is generously dotted with castles and other ancient monuments that instantly transport you to another time. After lunch, head to Kongens Have (the King’s Garden). If you’re entering from the northeast part of the grounds, you can wave at the giant statue of Hans Christian Andersen. If you have a pastry saved from one of the several bakeries you passed on your walk over (Buka for a classic croissant or the longtime chain Lagkagehuset for a cinnamon roll, to name a few), now is the time to find a bench or a spot on the grass to enjoy it while gawking at the meticulously well-kept shrubs.

Ready to hang out with some crown jewels? From the garden, take the short bridge over the canal to arrive at Rosenborg Castle, where Danish royals lived until the early-1700s. Spend some quality time in the Great Hall, where you’ll see coronation thrones and life-size silver lions standing guard, just like old times. Speaking of guards, yes, those are actual working, uniformed Royal Life Guards standing outside the castle.

If you have some time, or if you didn’t get your fill of florals for the day, Botanisk Have, the city’s botanical garden, is just across the street from the royal castle. It’s free to roam the grounds, but you can also access the butterfly and palm houses for a fee.

Your first night out in Copenhagen should commemorate the art of hygge, a concept long embraced by Danes. A brisk 10-minute walk southeast of the botanical gardens and along Gothersgade, a vibrant major street, will bring you to Palae Bar. This longtime neighborhood staple allows you to kick back and let the cozy in, along with a cold beer and some of the city's best smørrebrød (an open-faced sandwich typically made with rye bread). If you’re content at this point of the evening, stay put at Palae and you might catch a jazz performance.

For dinner, it’s only fitting to celebrate your day’s theme of gardens and feeling cozy by feasting at Vaekst, located inside a two-story greenhouse that feels more like a secret garden. Except this garden offers a seasonal Nordic menu that centers on fresh vegetables and herbs with an optional side of meat, seafood, or fish. Whether you choose the tasting menu or go a la carte, there’s no wrong way to experience this magical culinary ride. Reservations are highly recommended.

Giant swan-shaped paddle boats. Lakeside architecture. Fellow people watchers. These are just some of the things you’ll see as you’re biking or walking over Dronning Louises Bro, or Queen Louise’s Bridge, to get to the super trendy neighborhood of Nørrebro. Your first (pastry) stop is Andersen & Maillard, a bakery co-owned by an alum from the world-famous restaurant, Noma. Order the cube (yes, cube) croissant filled with a heavenly pistachio cream.

Head northwest half a block to find a corner of the Assistens Cemetery, where locals go for picnics or to go cycling or running. It’s a scene. Continue walking along Kapelvej Street and officially enter the cemetery (and use the restrooms, if needed). Turn left and follow the path to find the gravestone of none other than Hans Christian Andersen. The cemetery was also the final resting place for other famous Danes, including philosopher Søren Kierkegaard and physicist Niels Bohr, who was friends with Einstein.

Porridge for lunch is always a great idea in this country, so get thee to GRØD, where you’ll be greeted with a variety of porridge creations made from rice, oats, barley, and other grains. The nearest location happens to be on Jægersborggade Street, the long block of restaurants, wine bars, shops, and art galleries northwest of the cemetery’s other entrance. Do make a mental note during your walk to lunch of which shops and galleries you’d like to return to after experiencing the eatery’s famous chicken congee (served with scrumptious pickled mushrooms). Or maybe you’re still waking up and need a hearty bowl of apple pumpkin chia to get you going.

Next up: The Cisterns in Søndermarken Park, a former reservoir that once housed 4.2 million gallons of drinking water for the people of Copenhagen. These days, the underground space is home to contemporary immersive art. Past exhibitions have incorporated fire, mirrors, and even boat trips to view pieces. To get to the Cisterns, head back toward the cemetery walls and make a pit stop at Meyers Bageri for a cardamom bun or a piece of tebirkes (for your afternoon pastry quota). Then catch the No. 18 bus to the neighborhood of Fredericksburg, eight stops later. A bike also works here, and walking will take double the time—perhaps more, if your shopping itch hasn’t been scratched to the fullest.

Bike or bus to the nearby Kødbyen (“Meat City” in Danish) in the neighborhood of Vesterbro. You’ve entered the Meatpacking District, once a grimy, industrial part of the city. These days, head pretty much any direction in the area and you’ll find yourself at (or lining up to get into) a buzzy bar, restaurant, or gallery.

Make your way to Hija De Sanchez, a taqueria from former Noma dessert chef Rosio Sanchez. With the sweet smells of grilled meat and fresh tortillas teasing your stomach, it’ll be hard to fight the urge to order everything on the menu. Just don’t sleep on the tacos al pastor; on a hot night, order the house-made popsicle. Want a more formal setting? Sanchez opened the nearby Restaurant Sanchez and has been serving up a storm ever since. Try to get a seat at the bar.

For a nightcap, Bang & Jensen is the place to be, and even more so if you’re also craving a late-night snack (croque monsieur and a vodka lemonade, anyone?). The staffers are warm and wonderful, the place is plastered with framed drawings of an old man with a mustache and pipe, and the chill music will make you wonder if it’s time to move here.

Start your day with a visit to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek museum, home to more than 10,000 pieces of ancient Mediterranean art, including Danish and French sculptures. The Glyptotek was founded by Carl Jacobsen (of Carlsberg beer) in the late-1800s to give a permanent home to his expansive art collection. Don’t miss the museum’s winter garden, a giant domed greenhouse filled with plants of all sizes (including giant palm trees) and a fountain. It’s the perfect place to take a minute to yourself.

Head to Tivoli Food Hall for brunch. You’ll find 15 food stalls selling pizza, smørrebrød, French sandwiches, sushi, Moroccan flatbread, and more. Not hungry? Make your way to the top floor for a spectacular view of Tivoli Gardens, one of the oldest amusement parks in the world.

Hop on a bike for a 10-minute ride to the neighborhood of Christianshavn, perhaps most famous for Freetown Christiania, which began as a squatted military base in the 1970s and has been home to a community or “freetown” of hippy artists and artisans ever since. Note: Put your phone or camera away before approaching the famed Pusher Street, where cannabis is openly sold despite the green stuff being illegal in Denmark.

For lunch, head to Cafe Nemoland, which offers chill vibes, burgers, nachos, and (in the summer months) live music on the open-air stage across the way. Order extra fries for the table—you won’t regret it.

Next, walk off the calories with a visit to a giant troll named Green George, made entirely of salvaged wood. George is the creation of Thomas Dembo, a former rapper-turned-artist who has made more than 120 of these stunning creatures, which are scattered all over Denmark and around the world.

One of your last evening bike rides in Copenhagen is a short one (eight minutes). You’ll arrive at La Banchina, an oasis of a dockside restaurant whose motto is “Dip. Eat. Repeat.” Except the “dip” part is you going into the water, which more than likely will be freezing (reminder—pack swim clothes for this day). Not to worry: Head to the onsite sauna (which requires advance booking), then back to the water, and repeat the whole process several times or until hunger strikes. The cozy kitchen offers a small yet impeccable lineup of vegetarian and pescatarian dishes made with local ingredients, so the menu is always a delightful surprise for the senses. Sit on the dock, take in the view, and people watch. This is where you’re supposed to be—until it’s time to check out of your hotel and fly home.