I vaguely recall patronizing this Haida Canoe in 1996 following a visit to the then still-standing Golden Spruce. I think it was also around this time that Port Clements’ famed albino raven was still making the rounds before getting fried on a transformer near the Golden Spruce Motel (I’m glad I got to see it still living). Who would’ve thought 25 years would pass before I visited this canoe again? First, the technical stuff: The Haida Canoe Trail is located roughly 8km past the Golden Spruce Trail, along the Port Man Forest Service Road. You will notice a large sign that says “HAIDA CANOE” on the side of the road, at the “Y” before the Port Man turns into the QC Mainline. The sign is impossible to miss and it points you in the direction of the old Haida canoe. I would not recommend driving up the old road leading to the trailhead. When my partner and I visited, there was a lot of deadfall – rather large branches – strewn across large sections of the road. Instead, I’d recommend simply parking on the side of the main road and walking towards the trailhead. If you’re worried about traffic getting by your vehicle – don’t. The Forest Service Road in this area is sufficiently wide for traffic to pass safely. The Haida Canoe Trail is a brisk 400 meters in length from the signed trailhead, though it’s probably closer to 700 meters if you include the section of old road outside the HAIDA CANOE sign. Regardless, it is an easy hike – less than 10-minutes one-way. Once you reach the “Canoe Trail” signage, the route is single-track, but is well-maintained. After a little over 5 minutes, the dense forest opens up to the unfinished Haida Canoe. This canoe, now surrounded by thick salal bushes, is estimated to be around 150 years old. It’s quite remarkable that, even after all this time, you can still make out the shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern along with the flattening of the top in preparation for its hollowing out via steam. Beyond being able to view this amazing artifact, I think what I like most about it is the story it tells. This canoe, and others like it (there are apparently dozens strewn about Haida Gwaii’s forests), is a powerful reminder of all that was lost when the smallpox epidemic hit the Islands in the early 1860s. It’s not hard to imagine the carvers of this canoe succumbing to the disease, resulting in its abandonment in the forest. In the contemporary period, one could also suggest that this canoe and the story behind it helps to inform as to why the residents of Haida Gwaii fought so hard to keep visitors away during the early stages of the COVID pandemic. History can teach us much if we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen.