Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy
Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy
Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy
5
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PookyCake
Victoria, Canada14,946 contributions
Jun 2021
Established in 2008, the 2,722 hectare Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy is located on the eastern side of Masset Inlet, Kumdis & Graham Islands, between Port Clements and Masset. Because of its proximity to Port Clements, the Conservancy isn’t difficult to access via motor car. If traveling from Port Clements, I’ve found that there are 3 easy entry points heading northward towards Masset:
1) Kumdis Divide/Francis Homestead Trail: Approximately 15km outside Port Clements, you’ll see the trailhead opposite hydro pole 369. For much of its 4km (one-way) length, the “trail” follows an old skid road and passes by remnants of early settler activity. Of note, this trail is named after Francis Evans, the eldest son of Edward Evans. The family tried, unsuccessfully, to farm in the Kumdis Slough. NOTE: While interesting from a historical perspective, I wouldn’t recommend hiking this trail. Because of its very close proximity to the North Coast Regional District “refuse dump,” the area stinks of garbage and waste. In fact, the early portion of this trail is littered with debris. The smell practically guarantees you many taan (bear) encounters!
2) Kumdis Slough/Evans Homestead Trail: Approximately 19km outside Port Clements, you can access this 2km trail (one-way) – and enter the Kamdis Conservancy – at the end of Nadu Road. The trail is not formally maintained, but is easy to navigate. The first kilometer or so just follows an old skid road, bringing you to Masset Inlet. After walking the old road for about 15 minutes, you’ll have to use a beautiful natural log bridge to cross the Nadu River. After crossing, follow the trail back out to Masset Inlet. Here, you will spy the first major piece of colonial history: An old rotting dock which, because of the moss and small trees growing on it, has become quite photogenic. From here, walk south along the shoreline for approximately 20 minutes and you’ll come upon an old stone breakwater. After 100 years, only a small portion has collapsed, which speaks to the skill, care and craftsmanship that went into building structures at this site. Finding the actual homestead proved to be a bit tricky. We initially missed the trail and ended up climbing a fairly steep and muddy embankment before reaching it. Little did we know that the trail we sought was almost immediately behind the breakwater (oops!). Anyway, nothing much of the homestead remains; however, the rhododendrons – planted in 1911 – are worth the trip on their own. Their massive size and beautiful colouring offer a nice contrast to some of the surroundings. When we hiked to this site, I was just tickled pink, as they say. NOTE: Once upon a time, at the old dock mentioned earlier, you could walk approximately 1.6km up an old road towards the remains of a peat moss plant, which was built in 1967; however, as of this writing, that trail is closed – probably because of how extremely grown in it is.
3) Watun River Road: Approximately 25km outside Port Clements, you’ll encounter the Watun River Bridge. To the left of the bridge, you’ll see a rough dirt road; this is the Watun River Road. If you’re traveling in a truck, the road can be driven; however, if driving a small car, I’d recommend parking adjacent the bridge and walking the length of this road (takes about 10 minutes). Once you reach the road’s terminus, you’ll come upon a beautiful grassland and Masset Sound. Looking out towards the water, you’ll see even more settler history: The remains of Watun River Cannery – established in 1919 and closed by 1930 – are jutting out of the placid waters. Interestingly, the cannery was built on a Haida Nation seasonal fishing site. For me, this area is my favourite site in the Kamdis Conservancy because it is very easy to access AND highlights so much of what makes this protected area interesting: 1) Haida history; 2) Settler history; 3) The unique wetlands that’ve made Kamdis an internationally significant area for waterfowl, shorebirds and fish; and, 4) The area is endlessly photogenic.
You can, of course, access much more of Kamdis via boat, but most of us don’t have that luxury. Thus, the three points of entry I’ve outlined here are the most realistic. And while Kamdis does contain many Haida cultural features, the great majority of them aren’t easily accessible. As such, what strikes me as kind of unique about this Conservancy – outside of the intertidal estuarine wetlands – is the amount of early settler history contained within it.
Once you’ve finished exploring Kamdis, I’d recommend checking out other nearby points of interest to complement the experience you’ve just had: Yaaguun Gandlaay, Kumdis River Trail and Pure Lake are all close at hand. Enjoy!
1) Kumdis Divide/Francis Homestead Trail: Approximately 15km outside Port Clements, you’ll see the trailhead opposite hydro pole 369. For much of its 4km (one-way) length, the “trail” follows an old skid road and passes by remnants of early settler activity. Of note, this trail is named after Francis Evans, the eldest son of Edward Evans. The family tried, unsuccessfully, to farm in the Kumdis Slough. NOTE: While interesting from a historical perspective, I wouldn’t recommend hiking this trail. Because of its very close proximity to the North Coast Regional District “refuse dump,” the area stinks of garbage and waste. In fact, the early portion of this trail is littered with debris. The smell practically guarantees you many taan (bear) encounters!
2) Kumdis Slough/Evans Homestead Trail: Approximately 19km outside Port Clements, you can access this 2km trail (one-way) – and enter the Kamdis Conservancy – at the end of Nadu Road. The trail is not formally maintained, but is easy to navigate. The first kilometer or so just follows an old skid road, bringing you to Masset Inlet. After walking the old road for about 15 minutes, you’ll have to use a beautiful natural log bridge to cross the Nadu River. After crossing, follow the trail back out to Masset Inlet. Here, you will spy the first major piece of colonial history: An old rotting dock which, because of the moss and small trees growing on it, has become quite photogenic. From here, walk south along the shoreline for approximately 20 minutes and you’ll come upon an old stone breakwater. After 100 years, only a small portion has collapsed, which speaks to the skill, care and craftsmanship that went into building structures at this site. Finding the actual homestead proved to be a bit tricky. We initially missed the trail and ended up climbing a fairly steep and muddy embankment before reaching it. Little did we know that the trail we sought was almost immediately behind the breakwater (oops!). Anyway, nothing much of the homestead remains; however, the rhododendrons – planted in 1911 – are worth the trip on their own. Their massive size and beautiful colouring offer a nice contrast to some of the surroundings. When we hiked to this site, I was just tickled pink, as they say. NOTE: Once upon a time, at the old dock mentioned earlier, you could walk approximately 1.6km up an old road towards the remains of a peat moss plant, which was built in 1967; however, as of this writing, that trail is closed – probably because of how extremely grown in it is.
3) Watun River Road: Approximately 25km outside Port Clements, you’ll encounter the Watun River Bridge. To the left of the bridge, you’ll see a rough dirt road; this is the Watun River Road. If you’re traveling in a truck, the road can be driven; however, if driving a small car, I’d recommend parking adjacent the bridge and walking the length of this road (takes about 10 minutes). Once you reach the road’s terminus, you’ll come upon a beautiful grassland and Masset Sound. Looking out towards the water, you’ll see even more settler history: The remains of Watun River Cannery – established in 1919 and closed by 1930 – are jutting out of the placid waters. Interestingly, the cannery was built on a Haida Nation seasonal fishing site. For me, this area is my favourite site in the Kamdis Conservancy because it is very easy to access AND highlights so much of what makes this protected area interesting: 1) Haida history; 2) Settler history; 3) The unique wetlands that’ve made Kamdis an internationally significant area for waterfowl, shorebirds and fish; and, 4) The area is endlessly photogenic.
You can, of course, access much more of Kamdis via boat, but most of us don’t have that luxury. Thus, the three points of entry I’ve outlined here are the most realistic. And while Kamdis does contain many Haida cultural features, the great majority of them aren’t easily accessible. As such, what strikes me as kind of unique about this Conservancy – outside of the intertidal estuarine wetlands – is the amount of early settler history contained within it.
Once you’ve finished exploring Kamdis, I’d recommend checking out other nearby points of interest to complement the experience you’ve just had: Yaaguun Gandlaay, Kumdis River Trail and Pure Lake are all close at hand. Enjoy!
Written 16 December 2021
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