We started our day's walking at Porta San Sebastiano, where the Appian Way properly starts. We had originally planned to walk on a Sunday when car traffic is prohibited and the first stretch of road was definitely less pleasant with busy motorists and even crazier motorcyclists speeding along the cobbled roadway. Nevertheless we popped into Quo Vadis church and pondered this curious anecdote about the life of St Peter. By the time we had reached the catacombs of San Sebatiano, much of the traffic had turned off and the road became quieter. With hindsight, we should have taken the pedestrian detour towards the catacombs of San Callisto, but we were reluctant to miss any sights along that stretch of the Appian Way - there weren't many! Following a tour of the San Sebastiano catacombs, we marvelled at the Circus of Maxentius and the imposing Mausoleum of Cecilia, before breaking for coffee at the delightful Appia Antica Cafe. From here on, the Appian Way came into its own and we felt entirely immersed in history. We viewed the restored baths at Capo di Bove. We passed tomb after broken down tomb. We were treated to the sight of a horse riding along the cobble stones. Eventually at Rabirii's tomb, we turned back and retraced our steps but we could easily have kept on going for another hour or two.

A quiet countryside treasure just a few miles from Rome's busy streets. We took the 118 bus from the area of Circus Maximus (1.50 euro each) and arrived inside the park in 10 minutes (entry is free). Rented city bikes (booked the day ahead from Eco-bikes). We had use of the bikes for full day (12 euro per bike including lock and helmet). Staff were friendly and helpful, making sure we knew the routes and where to catch the bus back to city. We rode 9 km down Appia Antica before turning around. Great views of ruins, memorials, a section of aqueduct, mountains, farms and palatial homes. Along the way we stopped for a tour of one catacomb (10 euro), lunch and we visited one of the archaeological sites (11 euro bought online so extra fee). note: Bikes are discounted during the week and we may have been able to seen archaeologists doing some restoration at a site. A wonderful full day 9:30 am to 6 pm for (37 euros each). We are able to return to see the other archaeological sites over next 2 days.

In 312 BC Appius Claudius Caecus, an important statesman of the Roman Republic, built the first Roman road (the Via Appia) which, following the direction that the nature itself of the land indicated, connected Rome with the regions of the South. This road was called, for this reason, from the name of its builder, Via Appia and was extended several times up to Capua, then to Benevento until reaching Brindisi, the extreme tip of the Puglia region. It soon became the "Regina Viarum", the Queen of the Roads, the most important road among all the roads that originated from the Eternal City. Well, if you happen to have half a day free, it is worth taking this road by bike or by car. You will start from the Porta San Sebastiano, then there is the small church "Domine Quo Vadis", then you will see the Basilica and the catacombs of St. Sebastian, the Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella...and beyond. In the enchanting setting of the Roman countryside and in the midst of marvelous pines and cypresses more than a hundred years old, swaying in the sky... You will not forget this trip.