While the gearbox and brakes on our rental car worked hard to take us up here it was oh so worth the effort. We arrived late at night and were met by the owner (?) who checked us in and brought us to our beautiful cabins in the sky and proved to be a useful source of local knowledge! Walking into these cosy spaces is quite a wow factor. They are beautiful, complete with a little kitchen, bathroom. In daylight the morning after we got to thoroughly explore this perfectly landscaped place and take a dip in the garden pool. Although we were just staying one night this proved to be a highlight of our time in Madeira.
Off the beaten track, in rural Madeira, this is a remote place away from the stress and the hustle and bustle of city life. The chalets are well decorated and equipped and because they are on stilts, they offer nice views over the river and its inhabitants (a few ducks). We spent amazingly quiet nights. This place is also a good starting point to get to the nearby levadas and hikes (n° 12, 17, 18, 19, 33 and 34 in the Rother guidebook). On the downside, I would say that the pool was too cold (it's not heated and the temperatures are quite low during the night since we are in the mountains).
If you are booking through i-escape, beware, their information is out of date and their view is frankly rubbish. The stone cottage is not romantic and is totally unsuited for honeymooners, it has twin beds, is dark and dusty and was cold in January, the wood-burner made my wife smell like a kipper and me, apparently, like a smoky backwoodsman - go figure! That said, we stayed in number 3 of the stilted cabins (after moving) and it was delightful, warm, clean, comfortable. Santo da Serra is ideal for touring - you must have a car - easy run into Funchal and the entire east, north and south coasts, ideal for mountain and cliff walking. Luis was especially gracious, charming and very helpful. It is good value, the pool was closed but Luis cleaned and opened the hot tub especially for us - and we were his only guests, 12-20 January. Thank you for a memorable stay.