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help planning brief visit in september

We will be in Minnesota for a wedding in september but are coming in a few days early to explore the state a little. Caveats are that we will be traveling with an 18 month old (which for us means no kayaking), and will not have any camping gear with us (which is just as well as in what I imagine will be a chilly area, my wife would probably prefer comfortable lodgings over camping).

So far it looks like we should be driving the scenic byway (check!), and probably taking some kind of boat tour of the islands. I was curious if anyone would recommend one "type" of boat tour over another to help us get the most out of the islands knowing that we will not be able to kayak and explore on our own. Also where do the boat tours leave from? Should we plan on staying in Bayfield or on Madeline Island? Is one more enjoyable/suitable to explore on foot?