A recent visit to La Grange in Vazerac (82), was the fourth in about 10 years but what a great surprise this experience was. I presumed a new chef had been hired but it turns out that the existing one has suddenly improved beyond all recognition. While this is still an informal local restaurant in a small village, it's now a good one. The set menus provide value for money; the a la carte menu shows off the specialism of the restaurant, its wood-fired grill which is the centrepiece of the restaurant. Although I was following the draconian, protein-based Dukan diet, I managed to have a terrific starter of grilled scallops, followed by a whole barbecued cuttlefish, tender and well-seasoned. My companions both had a delicious chorizoand squid starter followed by a char-grilled faux-filet (sirloin), accompanied by a baked potato - a meal that wouldn't have been out of place in a New York steak restaurant. It's a warm, friendly restaurant which is deservedly busy all year round - reservations are definitely recommended. While the service is very slow, the staff is so friendly that you can forgive the wait. They also specialise in Catalan dishes, including parrilladas and suquet, a Catalan fish stew.