A spectacular park, huge dining halls with views all around, well-spaced tables: the "visiting card" looks promising.
As soon as you sit down, you notice a chill atmosphere in more than one sense. The high beamed ceilings are looming over you, the prissily dressed-up chairs look pretentious but are low and hard, service is efficient but unsmiling.
There is no written list and the set menu is delivered orally; the hors- d'oeuvre is based on the hefty Lodigiana cuisine, with lots of cheese, butter, cured meats, fried gnocchi, in generous portions. Tasty but nothing to write home about.
Then comes the house speciality: a creamy risotto with pears and speck (bacon), which is truly memorable. It is followed by two paper-thin slices of very greasy roast veal with even greasier roast potatoes. Nothing remarkable.
Dessert was, in our case, a large portion of excessively sweet fruit pie covered in jam.
To be fair, the bill, which included four courses, bread, wine, water and coffee, was indeed very reasonable, nothing to complain about. The jolly chef came out to greet us and enquire whether the risotto was to our taste, which it was. He didn't ask for comments about the rest, though.
We visited it once, and don't think it tops our list.
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