This place is idyllic. I have traveled to many tropical island paradises, but this place is the best. It is not even on an island, but it gives one much more of that island vibe than you would get on a Thai island or on Mauritius. You get the feeling of being at a luxury tented camp in a game reserve at the beach somewhere in remote Mozambique or on a far-flung Indonesian archipelago.
The lodge borders on the Kosi Mouth section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Kosi Bay Estuary Gate is right next to the lodge, which makes the lodge the closest accommodation to the Kosi mouth and to Mozambique.
The drive down to the mouth on the sandy 4X4 track is an adventure that meanders down a hill with a vast view of the magnificent lake system, past some traditional Tonga fish traps (Utshwayelo), over a rickety wooden bridge and through an indigenous forest (and also past a military base that you know is there but cannot see!). The last part of the journey to the beach is on a quaint footpath through dense coastal forest that eventually opens up to paradise - the mouth of the the Kosi lakes system.
The beauty of the place cannot be described by someone like me who lacks the poetic ability of William Wordsworth or Atticus. However let me try, nonetheless: The beach is brilliant white, fringed by verdant green coastal dune forest, the river-mouth and estuary are translucent turquoise and the ocean is an inviting deep royal blue. It sounds like cliches, but you must see it to believe it.
The snorkeling in the estuary is as easy as it gets, but the fish-life is prolific because no fishing is allowed in the estuary (other than the traditional Tonga fish traps). The shore fishing in the ocean I have been told is some of the best in the country, but nothing wanted to touch my lures... I did see a big school of King fish between some bathers however. We also walked the 3.5 km on the beach to the Mozambican border, not seeing a soul on the way. We spotted some great bird life and the thousands of crabs constantly kept us entertained.
The lodge is very well run by Mike and Yolanda and their team. The staff are professional, friendly and helpful. The grounds and facilities are rustic, well-maintained and exactly what is required to enforce the remote island feeling. We stayed in a Tusker suite which gave me the feeling of a safari lodge tent in the Masai Mara. You have all the benefits of camping, but none of the downsides! The outdoor shower is the best I have ever had the privilege to use and the tent itself is pure luxury. There are small touches of details that make your stay even more pleasant - from the towels shaped like Elephant heads and rose petals placed on our bed when we arrived to the flask of boiling water getting delivered every morning at 05:45 (just in time for the opening of the reserve gate at 06:00 and my early morning fishing excursions).
The swimming pool is clean and situated under the shade of some indigenous trees next to the inviting bar area (which was unfortunately closed due to the idiotic alcohol ban). When our son was not on the beach or snorkeling with us or exploring the reserve with his cousins, he was in the swimming pool.
The communal kitchen area is well appointed, cleaned regularly and, surprisingly, pleasantly social.
There is so much to do in the area - the turtle tour and the boat trip on the lakes are both musts on any person's to do list.
We are already planning our next trip - I have to catch one of the Mouth's famed Giant Trevallys!
