Chefs seeking to create within the context of #Maine Coastal Cuisine must respect entrenched expectations while at the same time seeking opportunities to introduce elements of surprise, and occasional open rebellion. Such is definitely the case at Blue, where the playfully inventive talent of Chef...Esau Crosby brings unexpected twists to familiar Maine staples such as grilled swordfish and mignonette sauce. On a recent evening, the marinated & grilled swordfish was served with an inspired housemade ketchup based in retrieving the condiments’ pre-Heinz history, while the punchy & peppery mignonette offered fresh counterpoint, rather than drab camouflage, for a half dozen perfectly shucked and presented Robinhood Cove oysters. The music mix in the dining room offered a subtle clue to what was going on in the kitchen, offering an unusual (for Maine restaurants!) mix of jazz ballads from John Coltrane to Billie Holiday turning familiar tunes inside out, thereby making them new again. There was something both slightly sad and slyly humorous about seeing the same ole “Garden Salad" (yawn) listed as a daily "special", while from the regular seasonal menu we thoroughly enjoyed playful riffs on beet salad, here served as a colorful composition with pea shoots, cashews and shaved fennel; and in a second salad, baby greens were brought into perfect harmony with roasted local apples. The wine list was equally as playful. Yes, there were the inevitable California Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Cab Savs (double yawn), yet we were pleasantly surprised by the presence of an excellent Loess Grüner Veltliner and a delightful Argiolas Armentino from Sardinia. With regret, we must report the one sour note for our otherwise memorable evening at Blue, and that is the clumsy performance of the two Grey Havens (triple yawn) Innkeepers, who would be better advised to let the excellent front-of-house staff do their thing unencumbered by their bossy & boorish attempts at conducting, sort of like like beginner tuba players barging into a jam session among seasoned pros. In sum, we will happily return to Blue for as long as Chef Crosby performs at the heart of the mix. As for the Inn, well, the front porch does offer a lovely view of coves and offshore islands. For us, that will be "Inn" enough!More