Guatemala's spectacular Western Highlands run from Antigua to the Mexican border. Pines blanket misty hillsides, rivers cascade through sliver-thin ravines, volcanoes rumble overhead. Catch market day or witness offerings to drinking, smoking St Maximon, in Chichicastenango. See traditional life in the Ixil Triangle. Clamber the Cuchumatanes Mountains. Mayan dialects and ceremonies are still part of everyday life for the majority of Guatemala's indigenous population, still living where their ancestors trod.